Better Lake Than Never

Mother Nature put the summer boating season on hold for a while, but the wakes on Central Texas lakes are worth the wait

By Ian Dille, SPECIAL TO THE AMERICAN-STATESMAN

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

The Colorado River's Highland Lakes Chain -- Lake Buchanan, Inks Lake, Lake LBJ, Lake Marble Falls, Lake Travis, and Lake Austin -- deserves a big pat on the back. On June 27 massive rainstorms (read: 19 inches in Marble Falls) dumped more than 1 million acre-feet of water (an acre-foot is the volume of water necessary to cover one acre of surface area to a depth of 1 foot) into the lake system.

All five of the LCRA-managed Highland Lakes' dams -- constructed from the 1930s to the '50s to tame the river and provide electricity -- held. Onlookers gathered in awe as the flood gates opened, creating class five rapids out of the normally tranquil waterway. The lakes closed to recreation, affecting weekend plans -- and businesses.

Guide to the Highland Lakes

Better lake than never
A place to lay your head
Places to dine on or near the water
Map of the Highland Lakes (pdf)
Photo gallery: Highland Lakes

"We completely shut down when the lakes closed and even had to lay off some employees," says Hawkeye Roth, the operations manager of Just for Fun watercraft rentals on Lake Travis. "The Fourth of July is like our Christmas, and this year Christmas got ruined."

On July 16, after a two-week closure, the lakes reopened. As the water levels continue to dip back toward normal and the debris clears, Austinites are rushing back to their favorite Highland Lakes activities.

Each lake offers multiple recreational opportunities, from boating to fishing to water skiing. We're highlighting some of the most popular activities and attractions at each lake, from the relative quiet of Marble Falls to the hardy party at Lake Travis.

Enjoy.

THE HIGHLAND LAKES

LAKE BUCHANAN

Near Burnet, bald eagles are the draw, but the appeal spans far wider

An unmistakable sound: I heard the bald eagle's shrill cry before I saw it. Its piercing eyes set against a soft white head and golden, curved beak, it intensely searched for prey. The eagle flapped its nearly 7-foot wingspan just once, then soared from my view.

Every year, thousands of visitors flock to Lake Buchanan for this singular experience -- spotting one of the 25 bald eagles that nest on the lake's northwestern shores from late October to the end of February.

The bald eagles aren't the only draw on Lake Buchanan. The LCRA's 940-acre Canyon of the Eagles Nature Park draws families, corporate gatherings and wedding parties throughout the year. And, for one evening this summer, it drew me to make the hour-and-a-half drive from Austin.

My trip to Canyon of the Eagles began with dinner at the restaurant of the privately run lodge. While the lodge's accommodations are fittingly rustic, with metal roofs, stained concrete floors and wrought iron fixtures, the restaurant's fare is refreshingly upscale. As I dined, the sun slowly set over the lake just outside my tableside window. Afterward, chef Larry Weber, speaking with a thick New York accent, stopped by to ask how the side of gazpacho complemented my teriyaki mahi mahi filet ($20).

The next morning I hiked down the short trail that leads from the bluff - where the lodge's multiple cottages ($109-$189) are situated - down to the Lake Buchanan shoreline. Evidence of the summer's rainstorms, such as tree limbs and assorted debris, clogged the banks.

The LCRA Store operates from this lakefront location, as do the Vanishing Texas River Cruise and Lake Buchanan Adventures, both privately owned businesses. "We all work together to create an overall experience," says Dondi Hinds, the Canyon of the Eagles sales manager.

The double-decker Vanishing Texas River Cruise ship is widely known as the primary vessel for wintertime bald eagle spotting. However, its array of excursions on the lake, including fall foliage and spring wildflower cruises, runs year round.

Lake Buchanan Adventures, an outfitter and guide service, offers a variety of activities, including a day trip to Gorman Caves and self-guided kayaking tours for group outings, families and individuals. On the day I'm there, employees of the Burleson school district are participating in a GPS scavenger hunt while team building at Canyon of the Eagles. With my trusty topographical trail map in hand, I headed for the 14 miles of lake and hillside hiking trails - specifically, the roughly 1½ mile Peacock Loop trail that leads to the Eagle Eye Observatory.

Operated by the Austin Astronomical Society, the observatory is free to Canyon of the Eagles guests on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday nights, while everyone is welcomed during monthly star parties (go to www.austinastro.org/sessions.html for dates).

After one look through the observatory's research-grade, 16-inch telescope, you'll truly see - the bald eagles aren't the only stars on Lake Buchanan.

Canyon of the Eagles Nature Park: RM 2341, northeast Lake Buchanan, Burnet. Lodge: Call (800) 977-0081 for reservations. www.canyonoftheeagles.com.

Lake Buchanan Adventures: (512) 756-9911. www.lakebuchananadventures.com.

Vanishing Texas River Cruise: (800) 474-8374. www.vtrc.com.

INKS LAKE

It's comparatively small, but pencil in this spot near Burnet

Gneiss and lichens: two reasons Texans (generations of 'em) flock to Inks Lake State Park. Gneiss (say it like nice), pinkish granite outcroppings, and lichens, a combination of fungus and algae that tints the rock formations in hues of yellow and green, rim the limestone edges of Inks Lake - the smallest in the Highland Lakes chain. They pop from the ground with sculpture-like grandeur, and cap the hilltops, creating scenic vantage points for stunning sunsets.

"There are so many unique geological features that set Inks Lake apart," says Terry Rodgers, the Inks Lake State Park manager. "Of all the Highland Lakes, it's the most magical."

While the scenery is certainly spectacular, Rodgers says, people primarily come to Inks Lake State Park for the water, which remains at a constant level year round. The park store rents paddleboats, canoes and kayaks for exploring the lake's canyonlike inlets, while those with motorboats can launch from the nearby boat ramp. In addition, numerous fishing piers ring the shores of Inks Lake, with good numbers of largemouth bass lurking in the waters below.

Camping amenities at Inks Lake State Park include air-conditioned cabins that sleep four (call way ahead for reservations), as well as traditional camp sites with water and nearby restroom facilities. Those looking for a more adventurous night under the stars can trek just a mile and half down the park's seven-plus miles of hiking trails to a primitive camping area, dubbed Pecan Flats.

For epic views of Inks Lake, visitors can seek out Devil's Waterhole and the old Highway 29 Bridge. A short, uphill trail leads to a granite overlook above Devil's Waterhole, while the old Highway 29 Bridge -- now a pedestrian walkway -- spans the width of Inks Lake, creating a clear shot of the famous Buchanan Dam.

Inks Lake State Park: 3630 Park Road 4 West, nine miles west of Burnet on Texas 29 to Park Road 4. Go south three miles to the park headquarters. (512) 793-2223.

LAKE LBJ

As far back as ice age, it was a hot destination

To the best of our knowledge, Native Americans known as Paleoindians came here first. Hunters of ice age mammals such as woolly mammoth and large bison, they roamed the edges of the Colorado River between 10,000 B.C. and 8,000 B.C., crafting weapons from the area's abundant flint rock.

Before the damming of the Colorado River, constantly fluctuating water levels buried the evidence of the Paleoindian civilization, as well as artifacts from the Native American inhabitants that followed over the course of 6,000 years, under varying layers of sediment. Today, their history is visible by simply looking into an excavation pit at the Nightengale Archaeological Center on Lake LBJ.

"The deeper you dig, the further back in time you're going," says Dan Prikyl, an LCRA archaeologist.

Other artifacts and information about Native American life, including materials left by migratory people from the Archaic and Late Prehistoric periods, are displayed at the center's museum and visitor center.

Why ancient civilizations habitually settled at this indistinct wooded spot still isn't entirely clear. Prikyl says LCRA archaeologists suspect a nearby spring, now submerged beneath Lake LBJ, or some other natural resource attracted early inhabitants.

The site was discovered when looters were caught on the 10 previously unused acres of LCRA land. Today, the center is the only archaeological site open to the public in Central Texas.

The Nightengale Archaeological Center is open to the public on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. Free; donations accepted. School tours provided by reservation Thursday and Friday throughout the school year. $3 per student. 201 Circle Drive, Kingsland, 78639. (830) 598-5261 on weekends or (800) 776-5272, Ext. 8002 during the week.

LAKE MARBLE FALLS

For one weekend, serenity gives way to sonic thunder of hydro racers

Atlast weekend's Lakefest drag boat races, rubbernecking motorists on the U.S. 281 bridge, overlooking Lake Marble Falls, slowed to a standstill as tens of thousands of spectators lined the sloped, grassy banks of Lakeside and Johnson parks.

With an earplug-worthy roar, a pair of 7,000-horsepower hydro boats took off, rocketing up to speeds of 240 miles per hour as they launched down a one-quarter mile, liquid drag strip. Their twin propellers flung up giant rooster tails of water, and the pungent smell of nitro fuel filled the air.

"It's unlike anything you've ever experienced, and something everyone should experience at least once," says Christian Fletcher, executive director of the Marble Falls Chamber of Commerce.

The festival atmosphere of the annual Lakefest drag boat races contrasts with a typical weekend on Lake Marble Falls, one of the more serene bodies of water on the Highland Lakes chain.

"Compared to the other Highland lakes, Lake Marble Falls is underrated because of its size (only 5 miles long)," says Tim Clements, whose wife is from Marble Falls and who is a regular of Lake Marble Falls, as well as many of the other Highland Lakes. "There are fewer waterfront homes, meaning less boat traffic and almost always calm, smooth water for wake boarding and jet skiing."

As Marble Falls continues to recover from torrential summer rainstorms, which caused more than $100 million in damage across Burnet County, Fletcher says the success of this year's Lakefest, topping attendance numbers from 2006, was especially important. "Lakefest was one of our last opportunities to recover from the loss of businesses around the July Fourth holiday," Fletcher says. "City crews were repaving roads right up to the point of people arriving for the event. It wasn't until Monday morning that we were able to breathe a sigh of relief."

Gear up for next year's drag boat races by watching the entire IHBA series, including Lakefest, on the Speed Channel starting in November.

LAKE TRAVIS

Where the wild life trumps the wildlife

Lake Travis is widely associated with two activities - one above the water, the other below.

Above the lake's bluish water, lush green hills border both sides of a mostly undeveloped inlet, Devil's Cove. While the cove's geography is inarguably scenic, most people come to admire a more carnal kind of beauty -- scant bikinis and bulky biceps.

On summer weekends as many as 300 boats drop anchor at Devil's Cove. On the Fourth of July and Memorial Day that number can double. By roping together as many as 30 boats side-by-side - in tie-ups - Devil's Cove partiers create rows of long, temporary islands. The gathering's been referred to as a giant, floating fiesta and a college party scene, only older.

Men and women chase each other from boat to boat; wade aimlessly in the water; and writhe to beats blaring from party barges. Beer bongs and Jell-o shots are popular - koozies, mandatory.

The LCRA's Lake Travis Rangers regularly patrol the area, pulling over inebriated-looking boaters for safety checks. And accidents do happen: Last year 12 people died on Lake Travis, with eight of those deaths possibly alcohol-related.

Despite the hazards, the popularity of Devil's Cove, which has its own MySpace page (myspace.com/devilscove), continues to grow. When the sun eventually sets, the party moves across the lake to Carlos 'N Charlie's for fruity, frozen drinks, burgers and live music.

For those not into light beer, there's always Lake Travis's most popular underwater activity - scuba diving.

"Lake Travis is one of the deepest lakes in Texas and it has some of the best visibility," says James Piper, a research scientist and diving safety instructor at the Applied Research Laboratory near Mansfield Dam.

Piper, a 30-plus year veteran of Lake Travis scuba diving, says while Lake Travis might not be the most glamorous diving location, it's great for inexperienced scuba divers or veterans looking for a local fix.

Piper has recorded visibility at Lake Travis as high as 80 feet, but run-off from increased development continues to reduce the lake's clearness. This year's highest reading was 25 feet -- and lasted only one week.

Live at the Lakeway (Lakeway Resort and Spa, 101 Lakeway Drive) is a free music series sponsored by KGSR. Shows are Sundays through Sept. 2. This week: Seth Walker. Doors at 6 p.m., show at 7 p.m. www.kgsr.com/lakeway.

Tom's Dive Shop, located near Windy Point Park, a popular Lake Travis scuba spot, offers scuba diving certification classes for about $220.

LAKE AUSTIN

Rise and shine, then tackle the wakes for hours and hours

On a sunny Sunday afternoon at Walsh Landing's boat ramp (just west of Oyster Landing on Lake Austin Boulevard), a sleek ski boat putters alongside the dock as two blond, bikini-wearing ladies, with a cooler full of beer, climb on board. The boat's owner, Greg Kalb, 28, who's shirtless, deeply tanned and sporting white sunglasses, coolly keeps an eye out for oncoming wakes from behind the captain's wheel.

No doubt drawn by the women, beer and thundering stereo system mounted to the boat's wake-board tower, I approach and ask Kalb for a quick interview.

"Sure, hop on," he says.

When the weather's good (and the lake is open), Kalb and his friends usually spend their entire weekend, which starts as early as Thursday afternoon, on Lake Austin. "My job is fairly intense," says Kalb, who works in finance. "So it's nice to have something like this where I can come and blow off steam."

The proximity of Lake Austin, an easy three miles from downtown, is essential, says Kalb's friend Tobin Beilue, 27. Plus, the relatively constant water level and narrow shorelines, which block the wind and force two-way-only traffic, create a generally smooth surface, ideal for wake boarding. Along with tubing, wake boarding and, more recently, wake surfing are the most popular activities on Lake Austin.

"Fifty percent of the boats on Lake Austin are wake boarding-style boats, where on Lake Travis you'll see more house boats, power boats and yachts," says Randy Bachman of Fun & Sun boat rentals, just down the road from Walsh Boat Landing.

On a busy weekend, Bachman says, he'll rent out every boat in the shop (ski boats run $75 an hour plus tax and gas). However, the heavy rain this summer, which closed Lake Austin during the height of the season, has hampered business. "We do between 10 to 15 percent of our gross revenue for the year on the Fourth of July weekend alone," Bachman says. "I'd estimate 25 percent of our income for the year is probably gone."

But right now, the sun is burning bright. The beer is cold and the water's cool. Kalb and his friends head up Lake Austin's 20 winding miles, past City Park, to where the traffic thins and the water surface smooths. They'll fill the boat's fat sacks, which weigh down the stern, creating a bigger wake, then jump in the water and toss out the towrope.

Another weekend well spent.

Fun & Sun Watercraft Rental: 1600 Scenic Drive. 306-1820, www.sunfunrental.com.

The Highland Lakes on the Web

The Lower Colorado River Authority manages the Highland Lakes and dams. For more, try these sites: